If you choose to use a hydronic radiant system, you’ll need a boiler to provide the hot water or steam necessary for the system. You will have to make sure that your electrical panel is upgraded enough to handle the extra electrical load of your radiant heating. These cables can be placed in wet cement to form a radiant slab, or they can be installed directly to subflooring. Electrical radiant heating utilizes electric cable that generates heat when electrified. When choosing to use a radiant system in your home, you have two options: electrical radiant heating or hydronic (hot water or steam) radiant heating. When you need help with your radiant heating system, call the people you can count on: Big Horn Heating & Cooling! Types of Radiant Heating Systems Let us help you stay warm throughout the winter months with our comprehensive radiant heating services! If part or all of your radiant system has become outdated, we can replace your radiant heating, and we can also make sure your radiant heating works just as needed with professional annual maintenance. We can help you plan your new radiant heating system and install it, or we can help with needed repairs. We have been installing radiant heating systems for years, and we also offer expert repair, replacement and maintenance services. This is where the experts at Big Horn Heating & Cooling come in. You can get this kind of benefit from radiant heating, but only when your radiant heating is installed and serviced properly. Imagine putting your bare feet onto toasty, warm floors even on the coldest of days. Right now I have a ton of insulation around that area and the sensor is slightly slanted to stay flush.Radiant System Services in Cody, WY by Big Horn Heating & Cooling Heating & Cooling Experts Serving Park, Big Horn, Hot Springs & Washakie Counties In the Big Horn Basin Perhaps a new wrap around aquastat would give better accuracy but I really have no pipe close to the output supply pipe and it's cast iron without at least 6" for the bulb to be flush with the water supply pipe. If both zones call for heat, is there a way to wire the relay or thermostat on the other zone not to come on till the 2nd zones reaches temp? I could probably solve the problem by installing a well type bulb but I don't want to drill the boiler. That 2nd zone aquastat turns on at 180* and off at 125*, (diff set at 5*, lowest) yes sometimes the burner hits it's high limit before the cir turns on but if I turn it down a bit the cir runs too cool water temp.to the radiators.īoth cirs never run at the same time as the 1ST zones has priority over the 2nd by temp setting for the cirs. I now have the 2nd zone hooked up to a pipe wrapped aquastst but it's not accurate as I really can't get the bulb close enough to the internal water temp. Also the radiators piping supplies the hot water to the top of the radiators and return from the bottom. I've ran it both ways and find that I use less oil by keeping a high setting of 180* all the time. The reason is the boiler is too small to heat both zones at once but separately everything works fine.īoiler does not heat hot water and I know I should have a cold start and don't need a triple aquastat but set up with a cold start the boiler takes forever to just heat the water to 150* to turn on the cirulator. What I'm trying to do is "never have both zones on at once". I have two relays and two thermostats, one for each zone. I have a 150,000 BTU boiler (water), oil fired, triple aquastat with radiators and two cirulators regulated zones. " So I guess it can be plumbed either way? His company actually sells a transfer station plumbed like this (see attached image)īTW can heat exchangers be plumbed either way? Or are they made as counterflow or parallel? -> Just read this in instructions "The fluids can pass in co-current or counter My radiant guy has been building systems for 30 years so I am at a lost here. The Heat Exchanger System | Radiant Floor Company Here is a link I find awhile back stating to use "counterflow" rather then "parallel": This is something I still am a little confused about. My radiant heat guy said, "counterflow" a will trap heat and that plumbing it parallel will work better. The "counterflow" versus "parallel" as shown. I will be going right side up even though my tubes are also coming from the top. This can cause issues with the flow valves. I should have mentioned the sample photo of the completed system has the manifold installed upside down. "closed systems are filled by a boiler fill valve, to 12 psi, tank should have 12 psi cold with no pressure on the system" TOHeating, looks you were correct, my heating guy just sent me this:
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